Reading the Frizzlefry tutorial is VERY helpful, until the parts are printed out and ready to be built. For those who have no idea of what to do after the printing and computer stage, READ ON. This is for those who have hardly ANY experience with paper modeling or the pepakura designer layout. Here is what you need. This tut is for designer, not viewer. Viewer only VIEWS, designer edits Okay so a little about this, I suck at typing so 1. This is gonna take me awhile:0 2. I suck at typing 3. If there are any flaws please let me know through a PM 4. This is my first ever tutorial on ANYTHING in a forum in my life of 31 years. Pepakura Designer does not have features required to design 3D data. The 3D data of the model you want to create has to be prepared before using Pepakura Designer. Pepakura Designer supports common 3DCG file formats, including OBJ, 3DS, and STL. You can use your favorite 3DCG software. The most recommended 3DCG software is Metasequoia.
The purpose of this tutorial is to teach you the basics of Pepakura Designer, a papercraft software.
Let's start with a short presentation:
Tama Software offers a small range of Pepakura softwares intended for papercrafts creation. Among these softwares may be found:
- Pepakura Viewer, a free software that allows to view and print premade papercrafts,
- Pepakura Designer, a paid software ($38), that allows to create papercrafts from 3D models.
In this tutorial, we will talk about Pepakura Designer. If you don't want to pay for it, the trial version offers you the same functionalities as the commercial one, except for the saving and exporting files options.
You can download these softwares here: www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en
1. Preparing / Finding a 3D model
Please note that Pepakura Designer is NOT a 3D creation software. It means that you won't be able to create a papercraft directly from this software. You will have to import a 3D model and then transform it into paper patterns.
To make the object of your dreams, different options are possible :
- The Ideal Path: Someone already prepared a .pdo file (Pepakura file) and shared it for free (or not) on the internet. In this case, JACKPOT! You can directly print / cut / glue / pull your hair out / show off. Small tip: To find the Holy Grail, search for ' .pdo' with Google.
- Using an existing 3D model: If you didn't find a premade Pepakura file, you will have to search for a 3D model of your object on the internet and prepare it. Mostly, you will find .obj files that can be imported in Pepakura Designer (a list of supported file formats is available on Tamasoftware's website). There are a lot of websites providing free 3D files. You should find what you are looking for quite easily. Once your file is imported, you will have to transform it into a pattern (see the following steps).
- Creating a 3D model: If you're not familiar with 3D creation softwares… brace yourself. I personally use 3Ds max, but you can find a free alternative called ‘Blender'. There is a bunch of tutos on the internet if you want to try CAD design. It is a loooong learning curve but if you are motivated, you will finally be able to create nearly everything you want to. Good luck 😉
2. User interface
When opening Pepakura Designer, the screen displays:
- Use the toolbar to edit your 3D object or your 2D pattern.
- In this 3D model area, you can view your object and move it in all axes.
- This is the area where your object will be displayed in a pattern version (flat). It depends on the final object size, but generally you will have more than a simple A4 paper. 😉
3. 'Unfolding' a 3D model
To start: open your file (.pdo, .obj, etc.) by clicking on 'File' > 'Open'.
IMPORTANT: check that the paper size is set to A4 (or any other format available in your printer). There is nothing more frustrating than preparing a good pattern and having to start all over again because of a wrong paper size…
Click on 'File' > 'Print and Paper Settings…' and set the 'Paper size' on A4. Check 'Print lines clearly' (folding lines will be cleaner when printing). The unfold button allows you to transform your 3D model automatically into a printable and foldable pattern.
When you click on this button, the pattern of your 3D model appears in the right area. The software will adjust the pattern to an A4 size by default, which might reduce the model under its original size.
To correct the size of your object, go to '2D Menu' > 'Change Scale' > 'Scale Factor'. In this window, enter the final dimensions of your object: height, width, depth (beware, these are displayed in millimeters). Tip : if your 3D model has already the correct dimensions straight from the beginning, try to change the scale factor by 1 or 10. Most of the time, you will obtain the initial size of your object.
Once your model is correctly scaled, you should have an epic mess in the right area… Indeed, the software spreads the pieces of your papercraft on several A4 sheets. Let's start with the cleaning work!
With a good cleaning, you can save time and paper, so don't underestimate this step.
First, adjust the size of the flaps: click on 'Edit Flaps' tool, check 'Change Shape' and enter the height of your flaps in millimeters (5mm is quite good).
Next step: cut the pattern in more logical pieces. For this purpose, use 'Divide/Connect Faces' tool: hover the fold you want to cut/connect, click and that's it.
Try to make symmetrical pieces and bring the small elements together to avoid gluing pieces that are to tiny and difficult to assemble.
Now that your pieces are done, use 'Select and move' and 'Rotate part' tools to better align the pieces on the sheets. Group them and save place by putting small pieces in the blanks between bigger parts.
4. Printing
We're nearly done! Last setting but not least: by default, Pepakura prints your pattern without the small numbers that are however necessary to know which piece comes with another. Go to '2D Menu' and check 'Show Edge ID' to display them. Cutepdf free pdf creator.
Do the same for the page numbers (this is useful if you want to be sure you have all the sheets printed before you start cutting them). Go to '2D Menu' and click on 'Show Page Number'.
Your Pepakura should be ready for printing, go to 'File' > 'Print', select your favorite printer, click on OK and let's go! 🙂
BONUS :
In addition, here is a checklist before you print your Pepakura, and a few tips about the software.
Checklist before printing:
– Paper size set on A4
– Object dimensions ('2D Menu' > 'Change Scale')
– Flap numbers ('Show edge ID' checked in '2D Menu')
– Page numbers ('Show page ID' checked in '2D Menu')
– Flaps size ('2D Menu' > 'Edit Mode' > 'Edit Flaps')
– Paper and ink in your printer (obviously…)
Tips :
Adding a texture
You can add a texture to your object, whether to use it as a final object if you only want to build a papercraft or to guide you when assembling the Pepakura.
How to :
First of all, you need a texture. Most of the time, the texture is provided with the 3D file you download. It is an image (.jpg, .png, .tgz…) where everything seems flat. Go to 'Settings' > 'Texture Settings', then click on 'Specify texture image'. Select your texture, click OK and look at the result!
Smoothing edges
When you craft an object with Pepakura, the result is often cubic, with sharp edges. You can soften this effect with a simple operation on Pepakura Designer. Beware, this method doesn't change your 3D object. The result may vary widely depending on the case, and sometimes your Pepakura would be too difficult to assemble in the end. It is therefore to be used with caution.
The concept is simple: the software hides some edges from a certain folding degree. Pepakura shows every edge whose angle is lower or equal to 175° by default.
When you change this setting to show less edges, the result is smoother.
Click on 'Settings' > 'Other settings' and change the 'Threshold' value. Adjust as you need it.
That's all folks!
All you have to do now is to cut/fold/glue everything…
Don't hesitate to ask questions by leaving a comment! 🙂
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How to Adjust Scale on a Pepakura Model
Now this tutorial is going to be something a bit different than the usual. In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to properly scale a wearable pepakura model so that it will fit you perfectly!
Materials
- Pepakura Designer 3
- Pepakura model
- Full body reference picture
- Half a brain
Everything can be found online for this tutorial
Overview:
This is a very quick and easy process by which you can re-size pepakura models to fit your body. It can be done with most models.
WARNINGS:
There is nothing dangerous about this tutorial
Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.
Now let's make get started:
Step 1: Getting a reference picture
The very first step in this tutorial is to find a full-body reference picture of the character who wears the certain piece, or anyone who you'd like the ratio to be similar to. In other words, I'm going to be doing a couple Daft Punk helmets, so my best bet would be to find a full body photo of Thomas and Guy-Manuel. However, if I couldn't find a full body photo of them, it's alright for me to use another picture of someone wearing an outfit of theirs if I like the size of the helmet. Do NOT use paintings or drawings, as good as they may be, they are probably not as accurate when it comes to anatomy (not to diss anyone's art or anything). I managed to find a nice, full body picture of both Guy-Manuel and Thomas, so I lucked out.
Step 2: Taking measurements
Now this is a very crucial step. It's not at all difficult, but it must be done as accurately as possible to get the best results in your overall ratio. Take a ruler (preferably a bendable one or a measuring tape) and measure the height of the model you've found the picture for in cm. Then, measure their headpiece, chest piece, leg piece, or whatever else you want to size (in cm as well). Once you've gotten both measurements, all that's left is to take your own height down and convert it to cm. If you don't know your own height to the inch, then you're going to need to take your measurement. For this, you're probably going to need someone to help you out and hold the tape or ruler while you stand as straight as you can. One trick I like to do when I'm alone is to stand up straight and use a pencil to make a very light mark along a door or wall and then just measure the wall up to that point. There are many ways to do it, just make sure it's accurate! Once you've gotten your measurement, you're going to need to convert it to cm. Reason being, pepakura model measurements go by mm. You can either take your measurement and do the math yourself (an inch is approximately 2.54 centimeters) or just type it into google. Once you get the cm, just move the decimal place over once to the right and you've converted it to mm.
Step 3: Doing the math
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Now there's endless ways you can go about doing the calculations to get the magic number you're going to need for your model, but we're going to go into a couple simple methods I find are easy to grasp the concept of. If you can understand the meaning of the equations you're doing, then you won't even have to remember any formulas and it will just come naturally. That's right, we're going to be doing MATH. That stuff is useful? Apparently so.Method 1
When it comes to doing the first method, everything is laid out in the actual problem, but grasping the meaning may be a bit difficult. You essentially have to think of it as finding a missing number using ratios. It's very simple and many of you have probably learned it before. Simply take your 3 known numbers and arrange them into a ratio problem (which has 2 fractions set equal to each other). Set both demoninators to the same aspect (person height) and then the numerators to the same aspect (helmet height) and then set them equal to each other. Cross-multiply the factors together and then divide to seclude the x term. In this method, your x term will be equal to the height or your helmet. I've included a picture that explains the method in more detail, along with an example.
Method 2
The second method is a bit easier to do, but it requires an extra step. Typical math, it's never just easy lol. But it really is, don't get discouraged. In the second method, we are trying to find a factor by which everything is multiplied rather than the exact measurement. In other words, your model that we measured from the picture is obviously much smaller than a real person. So when we tackle our second model, we are solving to find a number that can be multiplied to our very small helmet measurement and cause it to become a very realistic size. For example, if I'm 50 inches tall and I measure a helmet that's only 2 inches and a figure that's 5, then I can try to solve for the certain NUMBER rather than my exact measurement. So I can look at it like, how many times would I have to multiply 5 inches to make it 50 inches? well, 10 of course. So then you take the 10 and multiply it by 2 and you have your exact helmet size. I've drawn a picture and explained this method as well.
Step 4: Scaling the model
Now for the quickest step. To scale your model, all you have to do is open your pepakura designer and edit the information. Here is where things may get pricey. Yes, unfortunately you have to pay for pepakura designer, and that's the piece of software you need to re-scale models. It's around $40USD, but it's useful if you're going to be making models. It's also pretty imperative since most models are made extremely large in the event that their designers KNOW that they're going to be used to make actual props. If you're not sure if your model needs to be resized or not, check the actual file. Most of the time, the designer will have a note that says 'Check scale before printing' or something along those lines. If not, simply check the scale yourself. Checking the scale can be done with the free Pepakura Designer software, but you will not be able to save any work or changes made to the model. The models I used had to be re-sized, and unfortunately, I didn't know until I was halfway done with the damn papercraft.
You can add a texture to your object, whether to use it as a final object if you only want to build a papercraft or to guide you when assembling the Pepakura.
How to :
First of all, you need a texture. Most of the time, the texture is provided with the 3D file you download. It is an image (.jpg, .png, .tgz…) where everything seems flat. Go to 'Settings' > 'Texture Settings', then click on 'Specify texture image'. Select your texture, click OK and look at the result!
Smoothing edges
When you craft an object with Pepakura, the result is often cubic, with sharp edges. You can soften this effect with a simple operation on Pepakura Designer. Beware, this method doesn't change your 3D object. The result may vary widely depending on the case, and sometimes your Pepakura would be too difficult to assemble in the end. It is therefore to be used with caution.
The concept is simple: the software hides some edges from a certain folding degree. Pepakura shows every edge whose angle is lower or equal to 175° by default.
When you change this setting to show less edges, the result is smoother.
Click on 'Settings' > 'Other settings' and change the 'Threshold' value. Adjust as you need it.
That's all folks!
All you have to do now is to cut/fold/glue everything…
Don't hesitate to ask questions by leaving a comment! 🙂
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How to Adjust Scale on a Pepakura Model
Now this tutorial is going to be something a bit different than the usual. In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to properly scale a wearable pepakura model so that it will fit you perfectly!
Materials
- Pepakura Designer 3
- Pepakura model
- Full body reference picture
- Half a brain
Everything can be found online for this tutorial
Overview:
This is a very quick and easy process by which you can re-size pepakura models to fit your body. It can be done with most models.
WARNINGS:
There is nothing dangerous about this tutorial
Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.
Now let's make get started:
Step 1: Getting a reference picture
The very first step in this tutorial is to find a full-body reference picture of the character who wears the certain piece, or anyone who you'd like the ratio to be similar to. In other words, I'm going to be doing a couple Daft Punk helmets, so my best bet would be to find a full body photo of Thomas and Guy-Manuel. However, if I couldn't find a full body photo of them, it's alright for me to use another picture of someone wearing an outfit of theirs if I like the size of the helmet. Do NOT use paintings or drawings, as good as they may be, they are probably not as accurate when it comes to anatomy (not to diss anyone's art or anything). I managed to find a nice, full body picture of both Guy-Manuel and Thomas, so I lucked out.
Step 2: Taking measurements
Now this is a very crucial step. It's not at all difficult, but it must be done as accurately as possible to get the best results in your overall ratio. Take a ruler (preferably a bendable one or a measuring tape) and measure the height of the model you've found the picture for in cm. Then, measure their headpiece, chest piece, leg piece, or whatever else you want to size (in cm as well). Once you've gotten both measurements, all that's left is to take your own height down and convert it to cm. If you don't know your own height to the inch, then you're going to need to take your measurement. For this, you're probably going to need someone to help you out and hold the tape or ruler while you stand as straight as you can. One trick I like to do when I'm alone is to stand up straight and use a pencil to make a very light mark along a door or wall and then just measure the wall up to that point. There are many ways to do it, just make sure it's accurate! Once you've gotten your measurement, you're going to need to convert it to cm. Reason being, pepakura model measurements go by mm. You can either take your measurement and do the math yourself (an inch is approximately 2.54 centimeters) or just type it into google. Once you get the cm, just move the decimal place over once to the right and you've converted it to mm.
Step 3: Doing the math
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Now there's endless ways you can go about doing the calculations to get the magic number you're going to need for your model, but we're going to go into a couple simple methods I find are easy to grasp the concept of. If you can understand the meaning of the equations you're doing, then you won't even have to remember any formulas and it will just come naturally. That's right, we're going to be doing MATH. That stuff is useful? Apparently so.Method 1
When it comes to doing the first method, everything is laid out in the actual problem, but grasping the meaning may be a bit difficult. You essentially have to think of it as finding a missing number using ratios. It's very simple and many of you have probably learned it before. Simply take your 3 known numbers and arrange them into a ratio problem (which has 2 fractions set equal to each other). Set both demoninators to the same aspect (person height) and then the numerators to the same aspect (helmet height) and then set them equal to each other. Cross-multiply the factors together and then divide to seclude the x term. In this method, your x term will be equal to the height or your helmet. I've included a picture that explains the method in more detail, along with an example.
Method 2
The second method is a bit easier to do, but it requires an extra step. Typical math, it's never just easy lol. But it really is, don't get discouraged. In the second method, we are trying to find a factor by which everything is multiplied rather than the exact measurement. In other words, your model that we measured from the picture is obviously much smaller than a real person. So when we tackle our second model, we are solving to find a number that can be multiplied to our very small helmet measurement and cause it to become a very realistic size. For example, if I'm 50 inches tall and I measure a helmet that's only 2 inches and a figure that's 5, then I can try to solve for the certain NUMBER rather than my exact measurement. So I can look at it like, how many times would I have to multiply 5 inches to make it 50 inches? well, 10 of course. So then you take the 10 and multiply it by 2 and you have your exact helmet size. I've drawn a picture and explained this method as well.
Step 4: Scaling the model
Now for the quickest step. To scale your model, all you have to do is open your pepakura designer and edit the information. Here is where things may get pricey. Yes, unfortunately you have to pay for pepakura designer, and that's the piece of software you need to re-scale models. It's around $40USD, but it's useful if you're going to be making models. It's also pretty imperative since most models are made extremely large in the event that their designers KNOW that they're going to be used to make actual props. If you're not sure if your model needs to be resized or not, check the actual file. Most of the time, the designer will have a note that says 'Check scale before printing' or something along those lines. If not, simply check the scale yourself. Checking the scale can be done with the free Pepakura Designer software, but you will not be able to save any work or changes made to the model. The models I used had to be re-sized, and unfortunately, I didn't know until I was halfway done with the damn papercraft.
So anyway, let's get to actually programming it into the system. In Pepakura Designer, on the top right of the screen, open your 2D menu and scroll down to 'change scale', and then 'scale factor'. A popup will appear and it will show you the current measurements of the model. I have Pepakura Designer 3, and it shows up in mm (hence why I said it may be necessary to convert to mm earlier). Change the HEIGHT of the model to the measurement in mm you got. *Hint* it should be in the hundreds, not the tens. If it's a 2 digit number, you probably need to add another zero.
Step 5: Moving the print arrangement
Once you've rescaled your model, the printing arrangement will shrink and cause the models to be scattered across page boarders. Simply click and drag the pieces to new pages and make sure than none run off the edge of the page. Don't forget or you'll have a big ol mess once you print your scattered pieces.
And there you have it! A nicely scaled model that's bound to fit you like a glove!
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Sourced - http://kantikane.blogspot.ca/2011/07/how-to-adjust-scale-on-pepakura-model.html